General Finishes products Info & Techniques 

This section is to help you get the best out of the General Finishes products. If you can not find the answer to your question, please email us and we will try our best to help.

Click on a section:

- Safety

- Preparation

- Oil Based Application

- Water Based Application

- FAQ

- Glossary

Safety

We supply Material Safety Data Sheet PDF documents to give you full safety details.

The Health & Safety Executive Britain's Health and Safety Commission (HSC) and the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) are responsible for the regulation of almost all the risks to health and safety arising from work activity in Britain. See HSE Free Leaflets - Woodworking.

Note: When using oil based finishes, take careful precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

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Preparation

• Begin with the end in mind
• Basic sanding preparation
• Sanding tutorial (only for those that want to know more)
• Colour selection
• Other preparation
• The tools you need
• Work area tips

Begin with the end in mind

Wood finishing is fun and easy. Don't rush through finishing a piece of furniture as if it is a race. Imagine how it will look finished in your home in living colour. Set up a good prep area. Turn on some tunes. Get creative and enjoy the journey. Make something that will bring beauty to your life, save you money, and have fun in the process. Take an a little extra time to get a good result.

If you are an experienced wood finisher, refer to our retail brochures for quick and simple finishing instructions. For those of you that like to know more, we'll take you step-by-step through the wood finishing process including preparing the wood, selecting the finish and applying traditional or decorative finishes. Whether you're planning to finish furniture for your own home, make gift items, or take up woodworking as a hobby, you'll find wood finishing to be a rewarding experience. It's a practical skill that you'll take with you throughout life. Anyone can save money by finishing their own furniture.

The most critical part of finishing a piece of furniture happens before you open a can of stain or paint. A thorough sanding is often the factor that separates "acceptable" results from "professional-looking" results.

Tips for kit (unassembled) furniture: If you are assembling furniture, do so with an eye to the finished product. Do any major sanding required to make solid and flush joints and corners. Some find it easier to sand before the furniture is permanently assembled. Use caution when sanding individual pieces to avoid rounding over crisp edges that may form gaps when joined and glued.

Whether the project is a ready to finish piece of furniture, a freshly stripped old antique, a kit that needs assembly, now is the time to make minor repairs and do the finish sanding. Use crack filler to fill voids, nail holes and other imperfections. Crack filler should be sanded until it remains only in the void, and not on the surface of the wood. Excess glue on the surface of the wood must either be flushed and washed away with clean water while it is still wet, or allowed to dry and cut away with a sharp chisel or knife—any remaining spots or smears must be completely sanded away. Areas contaminated by glue will not accept stain.

Sanding preparation

We cannot stress enough that you must have a strong base of proper sanding to achieve the perfect finish!! See our sanding tutorial below if you want more details. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. Do NOT start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. Prepare the surface by using medium paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper.

• On soft woods such as Pine, Aspen or Alder, sand first with #120 and finish with #220. On hardwoods such as Oak, Maple, Birch or Parawood, sand first with #120 and finish no finer than #180.
  
  
• On hard woods such as maple or birch, start with a #120 grit paper and finish with a #150 grit paper to keep the grain open and receptive to stain. Finish the final. sanding with a finer grit sandpaper such as #220.

Do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain.

Make fast work of prep sanding! Shown here is an orbital power sander with dust bag used to prep the wood surface and buff out between top coats. Just use the correct grade of sandpaper when buffing out between top coats or milk paints. We often prefer to hand sand the final top coats. Do not use an orbital sander when distress sanding flat painted surfaces for an antiqued look. The orbital sander will dig in as you apply pressure to get through the paint, leaving round areas of wear that will not look natural. Natural distressing runs with the grain of the wood. This photo shows one coat of topcoat being buffed out over Lamp Back Paint.

Sanding tutorial (for those that want to know more)

A sanded surface is nothing more than progressively finer and more numerous scratches. Therefore, skipping a grit leaves deep valleys that successive grits are hard-pressed to remove.

A general rule for the use of sandpaper is as follows—the finer the sandpaper used, the lighter the stain colour will be. Conversely, the coarser the sandpaper used the darker the stain colour will be. Remember that a coarser sanding job will look less refined than the smoother surface that comes from progressing through increasingly finer grits of sandpaper. Final sanding will bring the surface to the desired smoothness. Sanding must be thorough, even and with the grain of the wood. If these criteria are met, no further sanding will be necessary. Since there are so many grades of sandpaper available, some knowledge of what the various designations mean and a little practice are useful in order to take advantage of this important tool. This chart is based on our experience and is intended as a guideline only.

The number of identification or grit number on the back of sandpaper sheets indicates the smallest opening through which the abrasive particles will pass. For sandpaper marked 220 the abrasive particles will pass through a screen with 220 openings per linear inch.

The designation ‘Open Coat’ indicates a particle distribution to prevent the paper from clogging. The adhesive used on wet or dry sandpaper is resistant to water, oils and paint thinner.

• The adhesive used on standard sandpaper is water sensitive.
• Cabinet grade sandpaper is backed with heavy paper.
• Finishing grade is backed with more pliable paper.
  

The types of abrasives commonly used for furniture finishing are garnet, aluminum oxide and silicon carbide. In general, red garnet paper is used primarily for hand sanding. Grey to white aluminum oxide is used for either hand or power sanding; black silicon carbide is the abrasive of choice for very fine sanding in the woodworking field.

Coarse sandpapers below 100 grit, are rarely used for fine furniture finishing. They may, on occasion, be useful for distressing the surface, rounding harsh corners, or breaking down extremely rough areas. The grades of sandpaper used most for furniture finishing fall in the fine and very fine categories—that is from 120 grit through 220 grit; with 320, 400 and 600 grit used for special purposes. For “hard to stain” woods, finish sanding with 120 grit will usually accommodate the problem. For finish sanding on most furniture hardwoods (e.g., cherry and mahogany) use 180 grit or 220 grit. The use of grits up to 600 is certainly allowed but is not standard practice. Usually you will have to make a concession either to surface smoothness or to colour acceptance. Factory sanded furniture still requires finish sanding. Do the initial sanding with medium fine paper and finish with one or more of the finer grades. Be sure you sand the whole surface with the same grit paper. Do not miss a spot. If you do, the stain will be darker on the rougher areas.

Do NOT use steel wool when preparing wood for waterbase finish, as steel particles may cause rust spots.

Sanding Blocks also make quick work. In this photo, Chris is sanding between coats of milk paint using a fine grit rectangular foam sanding block. Great for corners and small places.

Colour Selection

Colour is determined by four factors:

1. The colour of the stain.
2. The nature of the wood species and how porous it is. Different species of wood absorb stain differently. Test the colour on a hidden section of the wood you are using.
3. How long the stain is left on.
4. The extent of wiping when removing excess stain.

You can mix General Finishes stains together to create custom wood tones or colours. Be sure to mix enough to complete the entire project.

Other preparation

Remove dust with an air hose, damp cloth or “oil free” tack cloths. Do not use tack cloths which contain linseed oil when using water based finishes

Optional pre-wetting of the wood. On certain woods such as oak and ash, pre-wet the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain before final sanding. Allow the dampened wood to dry 30 minutes before the final sanding. This will provide a smoother final finish.

Stir the contents of the can every time you open it! And we mean stir. Whether you are using oil base or water base products, wood stains and milk paints contain coloured pigments and dyes that settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take several minutes to thoroughly mix the contents of the can so that the colour remains consistent as the contents are used up.

The open time with waterbase products is shorter than oil, so stain one surface at a time. Don’t be stingy when applying water base products. Load up the foam brush or handi-painter with product and apply LIBERALLY, keeping the surface you are working on wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off. As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a cloth. It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper colour.

Look for ways to disassemble the furniture to make staining easier. Just by removing a few screws you can remove the back of a piece of furniture.

Custom mix colours!!! Don't let a colour chart slow you down. Our water based products; Country Colors, Milk Paints, Wood Stains and Topcoats can be inter-mixed to create custom colours. Let your creative side come out and play! The interior colour shown here and in the photo above is a blend of Red Pepper, Yellow Sienna, mixed right in the can until we got the colour we wanted for the inside of the Rooster

The tools you need

Before starting almost any wood finishing project, have these items on hand. Get enough gloves, sanding blocks, brushes, etc. Just like golf balls are in golf, supplies are the cheapest part of the game.

Quality paper towels or lint-free absorbent wiping cloths.

Use gloves, even with waterbase products. Get several pairs if you are planning to layer colours on your project. Applicators will rinse free very well, but the dyes and pigments in waterbase products can stain your hands.

Some prefer the snug fit of the latex-free gloves from your local pharmacy. Any glove will work. Here is a tip: when cleaning up your work area after using WATERBASE products, just grab all the wet application cloths in your gloved hand and peel the glove off your hand over the cloths for quick disposal. Never do this when using oil based products. All oil based application materials must be carefully disposed of in accordance with the standards of your local fire department.

Aluminum foil and paper plates. Paper plates covered in aluminum foil provide the perfect container for application. Throw away the foil and reuse the plates. Remember, oil based products are combustible. Dispose of them in accordance with local disposal standards.

Prepare raw wood surfaces using fine grit sandpaper such as #180-#220. Use #320 for sanding in between coats. 3M sanding pads can also be used between coats.

Choose your favorite application tools. You can apply any stain with an old rag or bristle brush, but we recommend the following.

Use foam brushes for small surfaces and corners. Flimsy foam brushes fall apart in minutes - a good foam brush can be used several times. We prefer the Polybrush by JEN Manufacturing. Buy enough quantity to make life easy on yourself. We usually have several either in use, rinsed or drying. They can be stored after drying and reused several times.

Small old bristle brush for dragging excess stain or paint out of corners.

We love using Handi Painter paint pads for large surface areas. They make it easy to apply a lot of product to a section FAST, and are good for oil base or waterbase applications. We cut ours in half to make two applicators. Note that when Handi Painter Pads are new, or cut in half, they shed. Be SURE to brush or rinse off any fuzz before using. The loose fibers will show up in the finish! If you are using waterbase products, they can be washed and reused many times.

Don’t work like a dog sanding anymore. Use soft back sanding sponges! They fit on standard palm sanders, are very flexible, easy to clean (rinse with water), and last a LONG time. They work great for buffing between coats of finishes.

Use Blue Scotch 3M Painters masking tape to section off your project.

Great for two tone finishes or for creating specialty looks such as this checker board pattern.

Clean up materials: paper towels, cotton swabs, mineral spirits and sealed metal containers, such as empty paint cans (for cleaning brushes, and, with the addition of water, for disposing of rags and waste soaked with oil finishes).

Old clothes are recommended. They are usually expendable, lint-free and make great Halloween costumes.

Work Area Tips

Cover the floor with drop clothes, news paper or plastic sheets. Make sure you cover the floor area around your project enough to easily walk around it. Be mindful of the bottom of your shoes - don't walk through drips and then track onto finished flooring. If your project is small enough, put it on a dolly with wheels to easily access all sides.

When staining door and drawer knobs, punch the knobs into the bottom of a cardboard box for easy finish application. Simply cut slots in the cardboard, and slide the screws (with the knobs attached) into the slots to make them free standing.

Use old boxes for drying racks for small pieces such as drawer fronts. Recycling bins work well too.

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Oil Based Application

Applying Wipe-on Oil Based and Gel Oil Based Finishes

• Attributes of Oil Based Finishes - selecting  your finish
• Surface Preparation
• Application of Wipe-Gel Oil Based stains
• Application of Wipe on Liquid Oil Based Stains

General Finishes offers a complete line of oil based, water based and wax products. Application techniques differ between oil based products and water based products. Oil based gel products require different application techniques than liquid oil based finishes - both produce equally beautiful, lustrous wood tone finishes. Use the information below to assist you in selecting the best finish for your project and finishing style. There are several factors that may influence your choice.

Attributes of Oil Based Finishes -selecting your finish

Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats

Wipe-on liquid oil based products such as GF Wood Stains, GF Arm-R-Seal Top Coat and GF Sealacell Clear, are made with the highest quality pure urethane resin. They are as durable as polyurethane, but because of their thinner viscosity, urethanes are much easier to apply. Liquid oil based stains penetrate more deeply into the wood than gel oil based stains or water based products and will bring out more variation in the in the wood.  You will see rich variations of light and dark tones in the grain, but knots and irregularities in the wood will also be accentuated. Liquid oil based stains apply rapidly and easily,  do not require as much removal of excess product as gel stains do, and come "alive" beautifully when top coated. If speed of application is important to you, choose a liquid oil based stain. Many soft or porous woods, like pine, fir, spruce (soft) and maple, alder and aspen (porous) have a tendency to absorb stain unevenly. Treating the wood surface with GF Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner helps prevent streaking and blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain. Just use the fingernail test. If your fingernail dents the surface, you have a soft wood, like pine or aspen.

Gel Stains and Top Coats

Unlike liquid stains, gel stain are thick. Gel Stains give such immediate satisfaction and have a very high "touch" factor during the finishing process. Due to their high urethane content,  applications of Gel Stain respond with a high luster sooner than liquid oil based stains which must be top coated.  And they do not splash, drip or run. However, this high urethane content also increases the viscosity (thickness), requiring more wiping away of excess product during the staining process. If you prefer  "rubbing" and polishing a finish on, gel stain for you. The stain itself contains top coat material and they may be used as a one can finish. If using a gel stain as a one can finish, we recommend using at least 2-3 coats. For maximum durability,  apply Gel Topcoat over Gel Stain.

Top Coat Colour

Oil based top coats have a slight amber colour. Water based top coats dry to a clear finish.

Clean Up

Use mineral spirits or paint thinner for clean up.

Dry Time

Oil based products dry more slowly than water based products. In good conditions, allow 6-8 hours. In cold or damp conditions, allow 24 hours.

The sun affects everything! If left in strong sunlight, the materials in stains will fade like everything else does in the sun.

Disposal

When using oil based finishes, take careful precautions when disposing of waste products.  Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

Mixing Custom Colours

You can create a unique colour by mixing any two shades of GF oil based wood stains, or by layering one colour over another. Be sure to write down exactly how much of each colour is in the mix  and mix enough to complete the entire project. Do not mix oil based products with water based products.

Supplies Needed

• A good supply of high quality paper towels or lint free absorbent wiping cloths. Cotton cloth materials such as tee shirts do not absorb well.
• Foam or synthetic brushes, latex paint pad applicators, and an old bristle brush to get paint out of corners. You must brush or wash paint pad applicators before use to remove loose bristles.
• #120, #180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.
• #320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponges for buffing in between coats of Top Coat.

Surface Preparation

• Remove all hardware, doors and drawers.
• All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils.
• Fill all nail holes with putty before sanding. There are two methods: 1. Fill holes before you stain using putty that dries hard and can be sanded and stained, or 2. Stain the wood, apply one GF Top Coat, and then use coloured putty that matches the stain.
• Good prep sanding is absolutely essential to achieving a good finish! Prepare the surface by using medium paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. For softwoods such as pine, aspen, or alder, sand first with a #120 grit sandpaper, and finish sanding using #150 or #180 grit sandpaper.  For closed grained hardwoods such as Oak, Maple or Birch, start with #100 sandpaper and finish with no finer than #120 sandpaper. Never start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. 
• Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack cloths. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain. 

Wipe-on Gel Oil Based Application Guide

1. Application of Gel Stain

Caution: If finishing an unassembled piece of furniture prior to assembly, care must be taken to avoid getting stain on the areas of the joints. Glue will not stick to surfaces that have finish on them.

Using a cloth, foam brush or paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount of Gel Stain to the area of raw wood you are working. Divide your project into sections: drawer front, table or cabinet top, side of chest, etc. Keep the area wet with product while applying. Wipe away the excess with clean cloths or paper toweling and rub out the stain until the colour is even, applying light pressure with your hand until the first layer of stain evens out in colour. As the first coat of stain dries, the appearance will be dull or dry. Take heart, the beauty of the wood will come alive as you add subsequent layers of colour and top coats. 

Additional coats of stain may be applied for a deeper, richer colour. This photo shows a second coat of Java being applied over the first coat of Java.  

Sanding between coats of any stain or top coat is referred to as Buffing. We do not recommend buffing between coats of stain because you may remove an area of stain that cannot be re-blended. If you must buff because you have imperfections that need to be smoothed out, do so with caution using a superfine sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

On the second or third coats of stain, wipe off the excess stain using a clean cloth or paper toweling the direction of the grain. Again, apply light pressure with your hand until the colour is evened out, finishing with a polishing motion always in the direction of the grain.

Tip: Keep extra wiping cloths nearby as you work, replacing them as needed until you remove all excess gel stain. Be sure to remove all rag marks and smudges, turning and changing cloths as needed.  Several thin coats will give a better result.

Continue to turn the cloth to a clean side as you work. On your last few passes across the surface, use a lighter polishing motion, continuing to work in the direction of the grain.  When you achieve the depth of colour desired, it is time to move on to optional top coats.

Tip: Use an old dry bristle brush to remove stain buildup from the corners of molding, bead board, etc. 

Tip: Protect any wet surfaces that you may handle by using a dry cloth.

The stain itself contains top coat material and can be used as a one can finish. If using a gel stain as a one can finish, we recommend using at least 2-3 coats. For maximum durability, apply Gel Topcoat over Gel Stain.
Apply top coat with a cloth, paint pad or foam brush. Shown here: application using paper toweling.

When applying topcoats, your application process turns into a very light, brisk polishing motion with long light sweeping strokes, as the Top Coats glide along the smoother surface of the previous stain coats. Several thin coats give the best result.

Buff lightly between each top coat with a super fine sanding  pad or #320 sand paper.  Do not buff the final topcoat.  Sanding pads are far superior to sand paper as they form around moldings and corners and they last a long time. We like using a well-worn pad on the last few coats of top coat to promote a fine finish. Tip: If your super fine sanding pad is new, use it on raw wood first when working with the final finish coat.

Vacuum after buffing each layer of top coat.

Last step - just start admiring your beautiful furniture.

2. Drying Information

Good conditions, 6-8 hours. Cold or damp conditions, 24 hours.

3. Coverage

20m² per liter / 200 square feet per quart.

Wipe-on Liquid Oil Based Application Guide 

1. Staining

• Wipe-on Liquid Oil Based Stains contain coloured pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly mix the contents of the can so that the colour remains consistent as the contents are used up.
  
• Do a test first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area of the furniture to check the stain colour before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before the topcoat is applied.
• Apply using a foam brush, bristle brush, paint pad applicator, or a lint-free cloth such as an old T-shirt. 
• Stain one surface at a time. As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a clean cloth.  It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface.
• If a darker, or deeper colour is desired, allow the first coat of stain to dry for 24 hours, then apply a second coat of stain in the same manner as the first. Never buff a stain coat, only top coats.

Note: The white colourant in White Mist is titanium dioxide, which penetrates far less than the earth clay pigments found in all other stain colours. White stain is often called pickling stain as it lets much of the wood colour show through. It is not paint and will not cover like paint. Apply White Mist as directed above. Be sure to wipe off the excess well to prevent lifting during the application of the top coat. A second coat will add a little more colour. Let White Mist dry for 24 hours before a second coat or top coats.

2.  Optional Pre-Stain Conditioner

GF Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner is specifically designed for use before staining new or bare soft and porous wood surfaces such as with Aspen or Pine. It penetrates the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of stain, and helps prevent streaking and blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain. Prior to staining, apply a liberal coat of the Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes, then wipe away the excess with a cloth.  For highly absorbent woods, you can then apply a second coat, wait, and wipe away the excess again. Allow the pre-stain to dry for 30 minutes before applying stain, but no longer than 2 hours. 

IMPORTANT NOTE:  Pre-sealing the wood will lighten the colour of your stain so test the Pre-stain and the colour before starting.  A second coat of stain may be applied after the first coat has dried to achieve a darker colour.

3. Applying Top Coats

Apply the top coat with a lint-free cloth, foam brush, or paint pad applicator, moving with the direction of the grain. For large surfaces, apply a liberal coat as quickly as possible, evening out the surface with long, smooth strokes, keeping your applicator wet to provide lubrication. A dry applicator can drag on the surface and may cause streaks. (These streaks may be easily removed after the surface has dried by buffing well and recoating). Buff between top coats with '0000' steel wool or #320 or finer grade sandpaper to produce a smooth surface. A minimum of 3 top coats is recommended.

4.  Drying Information

Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats can dry in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70% - 75% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the time needed for drying up to 12-24 hours or longer. Basements, even with a furnace, fireplace, and dehumidifier, are the worst environments for drying. Provide good ventilation and air movement with a fan to greatly improve dry time. If a stain coat is dry, you should be able to wipe your hand across the surface without feeling any tackiness. If your top coat is dry, sanding will produce a white powder.

5.  Coverage

20m² per liter / 200 square feet per quart.

Maintenance and Care

It's important to let your final coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period. To maintain the finish use General Finishes Orange Oil or just a damp cloth. Paste wax is not recommended, because it builds up and yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem. 

To rejuvenate an old dull finish, simply clean surface well with mineral sprits and '0000' steel wool and apply one of General Finishes Top Coats.

Use caution in disposal of waste materials!!!!

When using oil based finishes, take careful precautions when disposing of waste products.  Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded.  Never leave application materials indoors. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local regulations.

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Water Based Application

• Attributes of Water Based Finishes
• Surface Preparation
• Supplies Needed
• Application of Water Based Wood Stains
• Application of Water Based Top Coats
• How To Spray Water Based Finishes

Attributes of General Finishes Water Based Finishes

This information has been developed to assist you in selecting the best finish for your project. Application techniques differ between oil based and water based products. There are several factors that may influence your choice.

Strong, Clear Vibrant Colours

Nothing produces beautiful colours better than water based finishing products. Red, blues and greens and everything between produce vibrantly in water based finishes. Whether you want brilliant hues to enhance a neutral room, a touch of whimsy or the comfort of classic colours; furniture colour is the perfect venue for self expression. With unfinished furniture, the possibilities are endless.

Top Coat Colour

Water based top coats are milky white in the can, dry to a crystal clear finish, and will remain clear throughout the life your project. Oil based top coats have a slight amber colour in the can, and dry to a clear finish which can darken over time.

Clean Up

Water based finishes clean up conveniently with water.

Non-Combustible

Water based products are non-combustible, unlike oil based products.

Recommended Finish For Open Grained Woods

Water based products are a topical finish. We recommend using them on any woods that penetrate easily, such as pine or aspen, to produce a more even looking finish. Conversely, oil based stains tend to penetrate the wood more, and can bring out more variation in the final result. With that said, remember you are applying finish to parts of a tree, and every piece will look different! To test the hardness of the wood, just use the fingernail test. If your fingernail dents the surface, you have a soft wood, like pine or aspen.

Sun Light

The sun affects everything. If left in strong sunlight, the pigments and dyes in Wood Stains will fade like everything else. However, water based Milk Paints paints are an ideal exterior product and hold colour quite well over time.

Grain Raise

Water based products produce more grain raising than oil based finishes - they do require a different finishing technique. Before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly with #220 sandpaper to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes. The amount of grain raising is dependent on the type of wood species.

Dry Time, Temperature & Humidity

Water based products dry faster so your project can be completed faster. Dry times are temperature and humidity dependent. Dry time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions (70°F/21°C and 70% humidity).
Cooler temperatures or higher humidity will prolong dry time to 8-10 hours. Water based finishes must be applied at temperatures above 65°F/18°C. Cooler temperatures will adversely affect how the finish will level and harden, causing fish-eyes or craters. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water based finish.
Good ventilation, air movement and higher temperatures will accelerate dry time. If working in high temperatures or low humidity, water based finishes may be thinned with 10-20% water or General Finishes Extender (3 to 6 oz. per quart) to improve open time for application. High humidity can extend the dry time but will not harm the final finish.

Mixing Custom Colours & Tinting

You can create unique colours by mixing any two shades of water based products. Be sure to write down exactly how much of each colour is in the mix and mix enough to complete the entire project.
Tinting may be accomplished by adding 2 oz of Wood Stain and 2 oz. of water to a pint of Top Coat (or 4 oz. of each to a quart). Mix the water and stain together first, then add this mixture to tint the Top Coat. Stir well.
Do not mix water based products with oil based products.

Cure Time

Allow the final Top Coat to cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your furniture sooner. Just treat it with special care during the curing period.

Maintenance

To maintain the finish clean surface with a damp washcloth and wipe dry. Cleaners such as Pledge and Murphy's Oil Soap are not recommended because they leave a dull residue on the finish.
Water based surfaces may be cleaned with a damp cloth or General Finishes Orange Oil. Do not use household cleaners or window cleaners. Paste wax is not recommended because it builds up and yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.
Top Coats may be recoated at any time in the future. Remove any grease or dirt, lightly sand with #320 or finer grit sandpaper, and then apply another coat.

Coverage

15m² per litre / 150 sq. ft. per quart.

Storage

Keep from freezing.

Spraying

While both oil based and water based products can be sprayed, water based products really spray like a dream with water clean up. Water based topcoats are self leveling and dry quickly.

Surface Preparation

For more details regarding preparation, supplies, work area tips, etc. visit our Preparation page.

• All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils.

• Sanding is a progressive procedure. Do NOT start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. Prepare the surface by using medium sand paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. Water based finishes need a smoother surface than oil based finishes, but do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish. Sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such as #120 sandpaper, and finish the final sanding with a fine grit sandpaper such as #180 or #220.  On soft woods such as Pine, Aspen or Alder sand first with #120 and finish with #220. On hardwoods such as Oak, Maple, Birch or Parawood sand first with #120 and finish no finer than #180. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain. Refer to our sanding tutorial for more information.

• We recommend minimizing the grain raise, especially on hardwoods such as Oak and Ash. After completing preparation sanding and before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly with #220 sandpaper to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes.

• Option for wood stains: Soft woods such as Pine and Aspen absorb wood stain at an uneven rate and may respond better to staining if the wood is pre-sealed. A natural (clear) stain can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform penetration of the stain. Pre-sealing will cause the final stain to be lighter. Always test your colour on a hidden part of the furniture! Allow the natural clear stain to dry 1 hour before applying your final stain colour.

• Remove dust with an air hose, damp cloth or "oil free" tack cloths. Do not use oil based tack cloths when using water based finish. Most tack cloths contain oil and will contaminate the surface.

• Do NOT use steel wool when preparing wood for water based finish, as steel particles will cause rust spots.

• There are two methods to fill nail holes with wood putty: 1) fill holes before you stain using putty that dries hard and can be sanded and stained, or 2) stain the wood, apply one Top Coat, and then use water based colour putty that matches the stain.

Supplies Needed

• Lots of good quality paper towels or lint-free cloths for wiping. Do not use tee shirts with water based products – they do not absorb water based products well.

• Foam brushes or latex paint pad applicators and a bristle brush to pull stain out of corners. You must brush or wash paint pad applicators before use to remove loose bristles. Note: purchase a brush that will fit in the can.

• #120, #180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.

• #320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponges for buffing between Top Coats. Do not use steel wool because steel particles left behind will rust.

• Soap and water for clean up.

• Paper plates and aluminum foil to make disposable paint trays.

Application of General Finishes Water Based Wood Stains

Helpful Tips

• Remove hardware from furniture. Taking a little extra time to remove backs of cabinets, drawer fronts etc, will make staining much easier.

• To minimize grain raising, complete surface preparation sanding and prior to applying Top Coat, dampen the wood with a wet sponge or spray bottle. Allow the wood to dry completely and lightly finish sand again with #180 to #220 grit sandpaper. Do not sand through the grain raise layer. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes.

• To get a consistent stain on soft woods such as Aspen, use Natural Stain as a pre-stain conditioner. Apply Natural Stain, wipe off evenly, wait 30 to 60 minutes and apply your stain colour. Always test the colour on the underside of the project before you begin. It is your responsibility to insure that the colour is what you want.

• All top coats (water, oil, lacquer, wax, etc.) may be used over Water Based Stains if they have dried properly.

• All Wood Stains may be intermixed to create custom colours or may be lightened by adding Natural Stain.

• A second coat of stain will produce a slightly darker colour.

• If working in high temperatures or low humidity, Wood Stains may be thinned with 10-20% water or General Finishes Extender (3 to 6 oz. per quart) to improve open time for application.

• Tinting may be accomplished by adding 2 oz of Wood Stain and 2 oz. of water to a pint of Top Coat (or 4 oz. of each to a quart). Mix the water and stain together first, then add this mixture to tint the Top Coat. Stir well.

• Use only tack cloths made for water based products (containing no linseed oil).

Hand Application of General Finishes Water Based Wood Stains

• Always stir the contents well. Stirring reduces the thickness of the stain and distributes pigments that may have settled to the bottom of the can.

• It is essential to apply a wet, liberal amount of stain with a foam brush or a latex paint pad applicator to insure easy workability. If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance.

• Divide your project into manageable sections (top, side, drawer, door).

• Stain a complete section and wipe off the excess evenly with the grain using paper towels or a clean cloth. Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. Immediately correct lap marks by rewetting the entire working area with stain and wiping the excess off.

• Sanding between coats of any stain or top coat is referred to as Buffing. We do NOT recommend buffing between coats of stain because you may remove an area of stain that cannot be re-blended. If you must buff because you have imperfections that need to be smoothed out, do so with caution using a superfine sanding pad or #320 or #400 grit sandpaper. Do not buff prior to the first application Top Coat.  

• On most projects three or four coats of Top Coat is just right. On projects receiving extra wear such as table and desk tops, additional coats will add more protection. Tip: use our High Performance Polyurethane for even more durability. For more instructions about applying Top Coats, click here.

Application of General Finishes Country Colors

• Always stir the contents well every time you open the can. Stirring reduces the thickness of the stain and distributes pigments that may have settled to the bottom of the can. It may take several minutes to thoroughly mix the contents so that the colour remains consistent as the contents are used up.

• Always do a test first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area to check the stain colour before proceeding. Do not practice on your new furniture. Every piece of wood and every wood species is unique and will finish differently. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat of stain is adequate. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper colour.

• Divide your project into manageable sections (top, side, drawer, door) and stain one surface at a time. It is essential to apply with a wet, liberal amount of stain. Load up a foam brush or latex paint pad with product and apply LIBERALLY, keeping the surface wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off. If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance.

• For a stained look with the wood grain showing through, apply stain to a complete section and wipe off the excess evenly with the grain using paper towels or an absorbent cloth (not a tee shirt). Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. Immediately correct lap marks by rewetting the working area with stain and wiping the excess off.

• For more solid colour (such as when using Country Colors), don’t wipe off the stain. Just even out the finish with the applicator. If you want a more “painted” look, let the first coat dry 2-4 hours and apply a second coat. If applying two coats of Country Colors, allow second coat to dry 24 hours before applying Top Coat.

• If working in high temperatures or low humidity, water based finishes may be thinned with 10-20% water or General Finishes Extender (3 to 6 oz. per quart) to improve open time for application.

• Sanding between coats of any stain or top coat is referred to as Buffing. We do NOT recommend buffing between coats of stain because you may remove an area of stain that cannot be re-blended. If you must buff because you have imperfections that need to be smoothed out, do so with caution using a superfine sanding pad or #320 or #400 grit sandpaper. Do not buff prior to the first application Top Coat.

• On most projects three or four coats of Top Coat is just right. On projects receiving extra wear such as table and desk tops, additional coats will add more protection. Tip: use our High Performance Polyurethane for even more durability. For more instructions about applying Top Coats, click here.

Application of General Finishes Water Based Top Coats

• If you are applying Water Based Top Coat over an oil based stain, allow the oil stain to dry a minimum of 48 hours under ideal conditions.

• Water based top Coats are milky white in the can, but will dry to a crystal clear finish. Stir contents well to insure that all the ingredients are mixed together.

• Apply with a foam brush, latex paint pad applicator, or by spraying.

• Apply Top Coats liberally using smooth even strokes working in the direction of the grain. Use enough material to provide a wet film. Do not over brush! Top Coats self level beautifully.

• Top Coats have “burn in” characteristics and may slightly lift some of the colour during the application of the first coat (particularly red colours).

• On most projects three or four coats of Top Coat is just right. On projects receiving extra wear such as table and desk tops, additional coats will add more protection. Tip: use our High Performance Polyurethane for even more durability.

Dry Time of Top Coats

• Dry time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions (70°/21°C and 70% humidity).

• Cooler temperatures or higher humidity will prolong dry time to 8-10 hours.

• Good ventilation, air movement and higher temperatures will accelerate dry time.

Buffing Top Coats

• It is important to buff in between each application of Top Coat for the smoothest possible finish.

• After Top Coat has dried, buff between each application with #320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.

• Remove dust with a clean cloth.

• Do not buff prior to the first application Top Coat. It is not necessary to buff final Top Coat.

Warranty

How to Spray Water Based Finishes

Spray Application of General Finishes Water Based Finishes

• Water Based PolyAcrylic is ready to spray from the container. If necessary in hot or dry climates, reduce 10 to 20% with water or General Finishes Extender to extend the open time.

• Pre Sealing : Soft woods such as Pine and Aspen absorb stain at an uneven rate and may respond better to staining if the wood bas been pre-sealed. Natural stain can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform penetration of the stain. Pre-sealing will cause the final stain to be lighter. Always test your colour on a hidden part of the furniture! Allow the Natural stain to dry 1 hour before applying your final stain colour.

• If you are using a sprayer that has been used for oil based or lacquers, clean the unit thoroughly and rinse with warm water before using. Apply a thin coat first that will dry and harden faster. Sand this first coat down to a smooth base on which to build your finish coats. With water based finishes it is better to spray 2 thin coats rather than 1 heavy coat.

• Spray Tips: Recommended For Country Colors, Wood Stains and Top Coats. Fluid tip sizes should be as follows: Compressed air - .040, HVLP - .051, Airless - .009. Recommended Tips for Milk Paint. Compressed air - .050, HVLP - .072, Airless - .013. Air caps should be medium size. Contact your supplier to verify proper tip sizes for your specific equipment.

• Always strain material through a medium to fine mesh filter before spraying.

• Spray medium wet films at 3-5 wet ml thickness.

• Reduction: If spraying the product as a stain in order to allow the grain to show through, reduce 10 to 20% with water or General Finishes Extender. If spraying as a paint, do not reduce. For example, you may wish to spray Country Colors on for a painted look. In this instance, do not reduce. It is generally not necessary to reduce Milk Paints. but they also may be reduced 10 to 20% with water or GF Extender.

• Practice makes perfect! If you have never sprayed finishes before, take a large piece of cardboard and practice your technique first. Spray water on the cardboard to learn how the gun works. Check your fluid settings and adjust the controls to get comfortable with the spray angles and to develop your technique.

• Keep your gun at a 90* angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6 to 8’ wide. Over lap each pass 25% to conceal lines.

• For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce overspray. Break your work into sections such as dresser top or drawer fronts. Spraying too large of an area can result in a textured grainy surface. A correctly sprayed finish should appear even and glossy. It is important to spray enough material to allow proper flow and leveling of the finish.

Trouble Shooting Guide for Spraying Water Based Finishes

• Rough, dry surface. This is called dry spray. You may have sprayed too lightly. Re-sand the finish with #320 paper and apply a heavier coat. Keep your gun at 6-8" from the surface.

• Dimples in the finish. This is called orange peel, caused by spraying in temperatures that are too cool. Cooler temperatures will adversely affect how the finish will level and harden. Water based finishes must be applied at temperatures above 65 F. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water based finish. The surface of the wood must also be warm. If you turn the heat on when you enter your shop in the morning, the air heats up quickly but your furniture will still be cold for some time. Check the surface to see if it is warm. Also, check the temperature of the finish. Warming cold finish by setting the can next to a heater or setting the container in some hot water for 5 minutes will improve the ease of application. Note: Larger dimples are called "fish-eyes" or "craters". Cool temperatures can cause these, but the more likely source is contamination of the finish with either wax or silicone

• Blush. Blush, the term for a cloudy, milky appearance in the finish, has two causes. The most common reason is incompatible stain. For example, using a water based top coat over a heavy oil based stain. When the top coat is applied, the oil in the stain seeps up through the finish and reacts with the acrylic causing a chemical blush. To prevent this, use a quick drying water based stain. If you choose to use oil based stain, seal the stain with a coat of shellac or lacquer sealer. This will provide a barrier between the oil and the acrylic. Proper drying time between the oil stain and finish coats is essential! The other cause for blushing is high humidity. Spraying water based finish in humidities of over 75% may cause blushing because moisture becomes trapped beneath the finish and cannot evaporate. You can prevent this condition by increasing air movement in the finishing area with a fan. All water needs to evaporate is sufficient air movement. You can also improve drying conditions by increasing the temperature in the drying area.

• Surface is not leveling out. In hot temperatures (85F – 100F) the finish may dry too fast. Use General Finishes Extender to open (increase) the dry time. Finishes that dry too fast may not completely level out before all the water evaporates from the finish.
  Note: High humidity can cause the finishes to take longer to dry but will not harm the final finish.

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FAQ

How do Hardwoods and Softwoods differ?
They look different. Some are smooth, some have bold grain and some have knots or bird eyes. They finish differently. The density of the various woods change the depth and tone of the colour. The region where the furniture is made, the style, and the historical period of the price determine the wood used.

What is meant by veneer?
Veneer has a different look than solid wood, but is not necessarily better or worse in quality. Veneer is a thin layer of wood applied in sheets over underlying layers of plywood. Originally developed to be an art form, veneer can be cut as thin as a dime and in intricate patterns. Uniform graining can be achieved, unlike the more random graining of solid wood.

When is plywood a good idea?
When strength and stability are needed. Plywood is made of thin layers of sold wood glued over each other with grains running at 90-degree angles to produce a strong core. It is used to provide maximum stability on the sides of desks, entertainment centres and other units where solid woods would crack and warp. A veneer is often glued on top and sides for an even and attractive appearance.

Is furniture finishing hard to do?
Using our step-by-step instructions, finishing is fun and easy. Match your existing décor or start fresh. With today's finishing products, the possibilities are almost endless. Create your own style; express your individuality.

What supplies are needed, other than the stains?
For most finishing projects, you will need a drop cloth, clean rags, paint brushes (bristle and foam), sandpaper or 3M sanding pads, q-tips and paper towels. If using oil-based finishes, have mineral spirits handy for cleanup.

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Glossary of Finishing Terms

Atomisation / Atomization
The breaking up of finish particles through the tip of an air gun under pressure. A fine mist is created that lands on the surface and levels out to a smooth finish.

Binder
Finish or resin added to the stain, used to lock the pigment and dyes into the wood.

Blush
Cloudy haze in finish caused by moisture trapped beneath the surface. High humidity is the most common cause. Can be also caused by the improper application of an oil base stain under a water base finish.

Coalescing
The evaporation of the chemicals that keep the acrylic resin in a liquid form. Once this process is complete, the acrylic forms a hard finish film.

Crazing
Tiny cracks in the finish film, usually along the edges of a surface. Caused by the finish drying too fast in high temperatures.

Crosslinker
A catalyst that causes molecules in topcoats to crosslink forming a harder film with increased water and chemical resistance.

Extender
Chemical additive used to control the drying and flow of water base finishes. Can be used with stains and finishes to "extend" the open time.

Fish Eyes
Defects in the finish film caused by surface contamination (usually from oils, silicones, and waxes.)

Gloss
The amount of light reflected off the finish surface. High gloss is rated 80-90° . Semi gloss is rated 50-75° . Satin is rated 30-45° . Rubbed effect is rated 20-25° . Flat sheen is rated 5-15° .

Grain Raising
Tiny fibers in the wood grain that lift when exposed to water. Easily controlled with proper sanding.

HVLP
(High Volume Low Pressure). An HVLP spray unit consists of a turbine motor that produces warm, low-pressure air. Its high transfer efficiency increases the square foot coverage.

Orange Peel
Defect in finish film usually caused by cool drying temperatures or improper fluid tip size. The finish looks like the surface of an orange.

Pinholes
Small defects in finish film caused by surface contamination. Resembles tiny holes in the finish.

Resin
The material that forms a hard film on the surface after the chemicals have evaporated. Acrylics and urethanes are the common resins used in water base finishes.

Satin
Finish that has had the gloss reduced to provide a softer sheen. A flattening agent made from fumed silica reduces the amount of light reflected by the surface.

Stain
A liquid mixture to color wood. Made of 4 parts: Vehicle (water or solvent), Colorant (pigments and dyes), Binder (resin), Additives (solvents to control drying).

Viscosity
The thickness of a fluid. This is used to determine flow rates for spray application. Usually measured with a #2 Zahn cup or #4 Ford cup. Viscosity can be decreased by using the appropriate thinner.

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