STROPPING THE INSIDE EDGE
Find the strop profile that most closely fits the inside of your gouge or V-tool. The tool should be tilted up slightly as shown in fig. 7 and once again, pulled away from the edge. Tilting the tool while it is stropped creates a slight secondary bevel on the inside of the tool to give the edge more durability and remove any burr. Stropping frequency depends on how hard or abrasive the material is that's being carved. When the tool begins to feel as if it's dragging through a cut, the tool should be stropped a number of times until the sharpness is restored.
Due to the cushioning effect of the wood or leather strop, each time the tool is stropped, the edge becomes slightly rounded. Eventually it will become so rounded that it no longer has an efficient cutting angle. To recognize this, check the angle at which the tool begins to cut in relationship to the surface of the work (fig. 8). When the angle is too high, the force being exerted on the tool is directed improperly. The force should be directed horizontally through the work and not vertically into it. If the angle is too vertical, the tool needs to be reshaped using a sharpening stone or abrasive wheel to flatten the bevel back to its original angle. The edge should always be repolished to restore its sharpness and longevity.
TOOL STORGAGE.
Due to the extreme sharpness of the tools they should be stored in their carrying case and out of reach of children when not in use. Care should be taken not to store them in a humid environment (damp basements, greenhouses, etc.). The black oxide finish on the tools is a rust inhibitor but does not rust-proof them. For extra protection, a light coating of oil or paste wax can be wiped on the tool. Moisture desiccant packs placed in the carrying case can also be used.
Allowing the edges to come into contact with each other, or other hard surfaces will damage them.